Structure Elimination System for fishing

Structure Elimination System

START CATCHING FISH USING THE STRUCTURE ELIMINATION SYSTEM!!

 

Simply put this System is a systematic elimination of the various structures that exist is all lakes.

First of all, this system is not for the lazy man! It involves a continuous process of moving around the lake in set time periods.

 

You will need basic equipment to get started. First you will need three rods in the boat (most of you have two with you anyway). What kind of rods? We'll leave that to your discression. It all depends what you are fishing for. Usually, we recommend two medium-light rods and one medium-heavy rod: this allows you to handle all species of fish and ALL sizes!

Once equipped with three rods, the next important step is in picking the baits to attach to them.

 

ON THE FIRST ROD - we'll attach a jig or a spinner bait. As far as color is concerned, use the age-old fishing rule: Light day light color; dark day dark color. Obviously, this can all vary depending on what part of the country you're fishing in.

 

ON THE SECOND ROD - we'll attach a bottom rig (like the Lindy Rig) or any rig that you can attach some live bait to. Maybe a bobber or float depending on the depth of the structure you are fishing or if you are close to a weedbed and you want to stay in a certain spot and depth.

 

ON THE THIRD ROD - we'll attach an artificial bait, of your choice, although we suggest that you stick to those artificials that are known for their fish-catching effectiveness... Rapala, Rebel etc. Also keep in mind, ask what works on that particular lake at the bait shop you will probably go to. Especially if you don’t know the lake very well. Even if you do, you will probably ask anyway.

 

On the first rod, you have an option - the jig can either be fished as is or combined with live bait: Nightcrawlers in the summer and Minnows in the spring and fall. You can use other live baits, too, depending on the species and size of fish you are after.

 

On the second rod, you do not have an option -the bottom rig must be fished in combination with live bait. Again, we strongly suggest crawlers (Summer) and minnows (Spring and Fall) the majority of the time and also depending on what part of the country you are in.

 

Here's how it works.... your first few minutes on the lake are spent observing the surrounding water and shorelines. Utilizing a lake map is also a handy tool to identify and plan where to start fishing.  YOU ARE LOOKING FOR STRUCTURE!! You notice a patch of reeds. That's a starting point. You motor over and begin with the three rod process of elimination. You are working within a 30-minute time period. In other words, in 30 minutes, using the live and artificial bait combinations on the three rods, you are to fully cover that structure in an effort to determine if fish are present.

Believe this, through a fan casting or drifting or trolling procedure, you will learn quickly if there is any action to be had.

REMEMBER THIS.... fish are migratory creatures. They seldom stay in one place for more than a few minutes: if you're lucky, 20 to 30 minutes. They DO move from spot to spot. So, even if you are fishing a known hotspot or one that seems potentially productive, DON'T be surprised if there is no action to be had. And by using the three bait approach with a 30-minute period to establish contact, you WILL KNOW if they are or are not there!

So what do you do if, after 30 minutes, that patch of reeds produces nothing? YOU MOVE ON! To another structure. No, it doesn't matter what kind of structure.

 

There never has been a time when catching fish was really difficult...there are certain rules of fishing that, when applied consistently, will never fail to yield limits of fish, no matter the species. If a fisherman does fail, then it is not the supposedly wily, wary, and mysterious fish that causes all the problems; but rather, the fisherman himself who probably lacks the very basic knowledge about fish, their habits and habitats. Weather systems also affect fishing. Understanding high pressure systems are better for fishing as opposed to low pressure systems.

 

With the Structure Elimination System, a fisherman does not have to be a modern day fishing genius to be successful. Not by a long shot! Let's face it, with organizations popping up all over the place, extolling the joys of scientific fishing, well, it's no small wonder that a good many average fishermen are beginning to feel left out in the race for fishing limits and lunkers. It's almost as if these so-called scientists are trying to convince the world that their way is the only way to ensure success in fishing.

 

But consider this long before these super pros came along, there were men who did catch fish consistently. Using the same basic rules of fishing that has been responsible for fishing success. Using the Structure Elimination System, you get back to these basics and reap tremendous rewards as a result.

 

What type of structure - JUST STRUCTURE!

And, once again, you begin the 30-minute elimination method using the different bait presentations.

 

That IS the Structure Elimination System. It's simple. It's effective. It works! On the average, in an 8 to 10 hour fishing day, most guys will never hit more that four or five spots, if that. Using our system, you can hit 15 to 20 spots a day!

 

The key though is your willingness to stick faithfully to the plan, the continuous moving-from-spot-to-spot process. If you do that, then you WILL be successful using this system of catching fish.

 The Definition of structure

 

The word structure should not scare or awe you in any way. Despite all the fancy scientific terminology that has been married into it in recent years, its meaning is still simplistic. Structure is anything on the lake bottom that constitutes the majority of the bottom of most average lakes. It can be noted here that some forms of structure are situated on land; for instance, overhanging tree branches that provide shelter form the sunlight.

Buck Perry, a Southern fisherman, invented the term structure and itÂ’s meaning relative to fishing, but in truth that meaning has been with man as long as he has been fishing. As long as man fished over bottom that provided fish physical things he could relate to in his movements, then man caught fish! It really is that simple!

Try and think of the lake bottom as dry land-and, aside from manmade lakes, all lakes were once dry wild land. And they contained all the physical characteristics of any valley you would pass by along the highway...trees, brush, deep holes, gullies, piles of rock, sand, and gravel, weeds, etc. The next time you pass by a small or large valley, stop your car, get out, and survey ALL that you see in this valley. Then, using your imagination, try and visualize this valley completely submerged in water!

 

If you can do that, then you will begin to get an accurate picture of what your favorite lake, or ANY lake, looks like under water.

Is structure beginning to make sense to YOU? It really isn't difficult to understand, it?

Now let's take a look at the various kinds of structure you will have to look for in the lake you are going to fish:

 

WEEDBED:

Especially productive during the bright, warm months of the summer. Bass, Northern Pike, and Musky (among others), like to lie inside the weeds to shield their eyes from the harsh sunlight, and to hide from smaller food fish that pass by, then dart out for an easy meal!

 

WEEDLINE:

This is the edge of the weed bed, and fishermen will find all species of fish alongside these weeds, at the weed line when they're in to feed.

 

SUBMERGED ISLAND:

An area of the bottom that is shallowest at its peak and drops off into deeper water all around it. This type of structure is particularly productive when there are weeds or rock and gravel lying alongside or on top of the submerged island. Fish find this appealing, especially bass, and walleye.

 

ROCK, GRAVEL, SAND BAR:

This is hard bottom surrounded by soft bottom. It can be a very small rise in the bottom, no bigger

than a foot or two, or a very large one. Length, width and height will vary. The soft area will usually consist of mud or silt.

 

SHALLOW BAYS:

Look for shallow bays with fairly heavy weed beds along the shoreline. This is excellent for large mouth bass, northern pike, and panfish of all varieties.

 

REEDS AND RUSHES:

Most lakes will feature a patch or two of reeds and rushes-these are effective structure for taking all types of smallmouth and largemouth bass.

 

STANDING TIMBER:

Usually found in manmade reservoirs. Look for fish in various depth levels both inside and adjacent to the timber.

 

DROPOFF:

One of the best structures of all. A drop-off is just what it implies.... a sudden and radical drop in depth levels.

 

HARD, FLAT AREA (ROCKS):

Small or large rocky flats on the lake bottom that seem to produce well in the spring for bass(SM) and walleye.

 

RIVER AND STREAM OUTLETS:

It is not the entrance to the outlet itself that is so productive, but rather the area adjacent to it on both sides.

 

CLIFFS:

Fish along the edge of a cliff for best results. The spring of the year is the best time to fish this type of structure - for all species of game fish.

 

DEEP HOLES:

Concentrate your fishing efforts in the areas adjacent to the deep hole, like drop-offs.

 

POINT OF LAND:

An underwater point of land, like an under water peninsula, jutting out and into the water; the point itself submerged. Look for fish at various depths along both sides of the point.

 

DOCKS AND BOATHOUSES:

Fishermen love to fish docks/piers and boathouses. They can be meaningful and productive structures; especially early morning and early evening hours. Big bass and Northern Pike have been caught around piers.

 

LILY PADS:

Exceptional structure for largemouth bass. Fish inside and alongside the lily pads.

 

These aren't the only structures you will encounter on a lake, but they do constitute the variety of structures you will have to be concerned with the BEST fish-producing structures! But don't be afraid to try structure that isn't listed here. If it's different in physical characteristic from flat bottom, then it's worth checking out.

 

The KEY to making the Structure Elimination System work for you is an understanding and grasping of what the various structures are -so that you can find them and identify them once you are on the water. There are no shortcuts to success, you MUST know structure if you are to get the job done!